The Golden City has so much to offer (Picture: Getty Images)
From the Golden Gate Bridge to Alcatraz, it was only after booking my flight to San Francisco that I realised just how much there is to see and do in this Californian city – the birthplace of everything from liberalism and hippies, to sourdough bread.
On top of that, I couldn’t wait to wander along the streets where some of my favourite millennial movies were filmed, including The Princess Diaries (hello, trolley people) and Mrs Doubtfire.
Plus, you’re only a quick flight or drive away from iconic destinations such as LA, Napa Valley, Yosemite National Park and Vegas.
With that in mind, a trip to San Francisco for a week felt pretty overwhelming, but fear not: there’s plenty of time to tick the iconic sights off your bucket list – with a pretty memorable wine filled excursion thrown in too.
But first, a word of warning…
If there is one thing all visitors to the Golden City must know about, it’s the weather.
Yes, you’re going to California, but don’t expect to be basking in the sunshine. This is the Bay Area my friend, and it’s said locals can spot a tourist by how ill-prepared they are for the notorious fog (aka Karl: he has his own Instagram page).
Karl has his way with the bridge (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
If you want that Insta-worthy pic of the Golden Gate Bridge, keep in mind that Karl will make it difficult for you to get a clear view. And, the first time we headed down to the Marina we wondered what all the fuss was about – only to realise that Karl was hiding the bayside scenery.
If you take one thing away from this article, it should be this: pack layers. The area is known for its microclimates – temperatures that can vary dramatically within just a few miles from each other. One minute, I was topping up my tan, and the next I was hastily pulling on a jumper.
The weather could never spoil all that SF has to offer, but if you’re hoping for some sun, go in September.
What to do…
As a Londoner, San Francisco wasn’t the easiest place to get around via public transport, but you can’t miss a trip on the iconic cable cars. Dating back to 1873, they were supposedly introduced after inventor Andrew Hallidie witnessed a horse-drawn cart struggling to pull a load up one of the city’s famed hills.
Turns out, this is a myth, and Andrew was more inspired by the idea of earning some hard cold cash – but either way, the cable cars are a tourist must-do. The brave will hang off the side with reckless abandon and enjoy the very hilly ride.
You’ve got to take a ride on the cable cars (Credits: Getty Images/Image Source)
Speaking of hills, head to Lombard Street, aka, ‘the world’s crookedest street’, which Princess Diaries fans will recognise. The best places to snap your Insta pics are at the intersections on Hyde Street, Coit Tower, Grant Street, and Leavenworth Street.
You won’t want to give the Painted Ladies a miss – a row of pastel coloured town houses, most famously featured in Full House. Opposite Alamo Park, while away a few hours in their shadow with a picnic. Movie Buffs can walk from here to the Mrs Doubtfire house on Steiner Street. For more scenic strolls, Golden Gate Park is a must visit – think open green spaces, cycle paths and gardens.
The most crooked street in the world (Picture: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Recognise the painted ladies? (Credits: Getty Images)
If it’s culture you’re after, San Francisco has that too. A San Francisco CityPASS® ($84 adult/$64 child) will save you almost 50% on four top attractions – you get access to the California Academy of Sciences and a trip on the Blue & Gold Fleet San Francisco Bay Cruise. You also get admission to two more attractions of your choice – including the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Aquarium of the Bay, the Walt Disney Family Museum, Exploratorium, and the San Francisco Zoo & Gardens.
Each neighbourhood in the Golden City has something different to offer: the Castro District is San Francisco’s LGBTQIA+ area, and often dubbed the gay capital of the USA. It was home to Harvey Milk – the first openly gay man voted into public office – and in 1983, the San Francisco Aids Foundation handed out condoms here to revelers at the Pride parade. This simple act was seen as a big step in changing the course of the AIDS epidemic. Haight Ashbury is another neighbourhood worth a mooch around, known for being the centre of the hippie movement.
The Castro District is often dubbed the gay capital of the USA (Credits: Getty Images)
Of course, you can’t go to SF without seeing the Golden Gate Bridge. We got up close to it on an Unlimited Biking Science Bike Tour with our guide, Jodi, who took us on a friendly ride from the marina district, right over the bridge to Sausalito – a luxe neighbourhood on the water, said to be the dock from where Otis Redding wrote his famous song. It’s touristy, but beautiful and the weather is much better than across the bay. You’ll be hungry after all that cycling, so grab a sandwich from Sausalito Gourmet Delicatessen, before you get the ferry back – keep an eye out for the dolphins!
A cycle tour gets you up close and personal to the famous bridge (Picture: Unlimited Biking)
A word of warning though, the ride is for experienced cyclists only (the bridge is as busy as it is foggy) so if you’d rather stay on two feet, a stroll on the waters edge to Chrissy Field is a great place from which to view the bridge, snap some pics and buy a hot drink at the Warming Hut.
If you’re willing to venture a little out of town, the Shoreline Amphitheatre in Mountain View is an outdoor concert venue about an hour’s taxi drive away from the city. This is where I truly threw caution to the wind and became a fully fledged Jonas Brother’s fan in my 30s – but the venue has also played host to David Bowie, Eric Clapton and Elton John. I’d recommend checking out who is gracing the stage when you’re in town – it was a highlight of the trip.
While away an afternoon in Sausalito (Credits: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
And last, but by no means least, you can’t leave SF without a trip to Alcatraz. Book in advance to make sure you don’t miss out, and hop on board the five minute ferry to the island, to discover the secrets of the former maximum security prison. Learn all about the escape attempts, and famous inmates including Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelly. Tickets for the ferry, entrance into the prison and a self-guided audio tour cost $45.25.
A trip to SF isn’t complete without heading over to Alcatraz (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
Where to eat…
From a bustling farmer’s market to Michelin starred restaurants (there’s 28 in the city) you’re spoilt for choice here.
You’ll find the widest variety of food at the Ferry Building. The building dates back to 1898, when it was a transport hub for anyone arriving into SF. It became an office building before it was transformed into what it is today: a marketplace full of independent eateries and retailers.
Go hungry to the Ferry Building and Farmer’s Market (Picture: Getty Images)
My favourites were the Mexican food at Cholita Linda’s – their Baja fish tacos and mango passionfruit agua are a must – and the Pali Cali at Reem’s, a flatbread stuffed with sumac-braised chicken, and caramlised onion sauce. You can also grab some sourdough from Acme Bread, and eat it with a hunk of the award-winning Mt. Tam cheese from Cowgirl Creamery.
We tried to some SF local produce on a food tour (Picture: Edible Excursions)
We were shown around the vendors on an Edible Excursion tour ($90 per person). Be sure to book on a Saturday when the farmer’s market is town, for even more deliciousness to sample. Frog Hollow Farm offered up the best peaches I’ve literally ever had (grab a peachy pastry to go) and Mark n Mike’s fuss-free deli style food is worth trying too.
You can’t come to San Francisco and not have clam chowder, served in a sourdough bowl of course. We had ours at Fog Harbour Fish House, for just $10. Located in Fisherman’s Wharf, the touristy port is a little on the shabby chic vibe, but you’ve got to make a trip – even if it’s just to see the famous seals having a sunbathe.
And speaking of sourdough, Boudin Bakery Café claims to have the original – and the best. They say they make their bread with the same ‘mother dough’ cultivated from a sourdough starter that dates back to the Gold Rush.Â
You’ve got to give clam chowder a try (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
If it’s cocktails you’re after, Wildhawk in the Mission District was a super cool, dimly-lit bar that specialises in classic favourites with a modern twist. We struggled to find places to eat around here though that were open and had space past about 8.30pm, so plan where to go in advance. The Marina District is also packed full of bars – our favourite was Delarosa, where friendly barman Travis served up great chat and a Salty Dog cocktail.
For a more all-American feel, Harry’s Bar on Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights was a no-frills bar that played sports on every screen, and served deep fried deliciousness until the early hours. Before you head in for a drink, mooch along Fillmore, home to up-market boutiques like Rag & Bone and Alice & Olivia.
Still hungry? California staple In & Out Burger is the West Coast fast-food joint. I personally will always and forever be a McDonald’s girlie, but the animal fries were delicious – the friendly staff get extra points for letting me take home a souvenir paper hat.
Miller & Lux was a delicious splurge (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
And, if you’re in the mood to celebrate, Michelin restaurant Miller & Lux, by renowned celebrity chef, Tyler Florence, is the steakhouse that’s worth the splurge. Starting from $50 a steak, they don’t come cheap, but you won’t regret it. Their famous Caeser salad is also delicious ($38 for two), and made tableside. But do check that wine list carefully: I very nearly ordered bottle of red for around $60 – before realising that was actually the cost per glass.
Where to stay…
Newsflash: California is far away, and the flight feels like it too. So when you finally arrive in the city, you want to feel at home immediately – and that’s where The Fairmont comes in.
Walking into the grand marble foyer, you instantly feel at home. The staff are friendly, the beds are huge, and that palatial bathroom was the perfect place to wash away 11+ hours in economy.
The Fairmont was breathtaking (Picture: Fairmont Hotel)
The famous Fairmont (Picture: Matthew Millman)
It’s also where jazz crooner Tony Bennett first sang I Left My Heart in San Francisco in 1961 – hence the statue of him out front. Doubles start at £265.
The Fairmont sits right on the top of Nob Hill (pause for giggles) – an exclusive area of the city. Next door to it, you’ll find the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins, where doubles start at £156.
Have a cocktail at the Top of the Mark (Picture: InterContinental Mark Hopkins)
A similar Old Hollywood vibe to The Fairmont, Mark Hopkins’ USP is Top of the Mark, the 19th floor bar with breathtaking views of the SF skyline. Keep an eye out for a ‘Squadron Bottle’ – a military tradition that sees service members leave a bottle of something strong with the bartender, so the next member of their squadron can quench their thirst.
Downtown in Union Square is the slightly more affordable Japanese inspired Hotel Nikko, with doubles starting at £160. A steer away from retro glamour of the other hotels, I preferred the more modern decor here.
The tasteful rooms at Hotel Nikko (Picture: Hotel Nikko)
The service here was the best we experienced, with no ask too great – even hot water, honey and lemon at 2am when the room service was closed, but I had a sore throat after singing along to the Jonas Brothers too a little too enthusiastically. And make sure you take time to fully appreciate the high-tech loo. The heated toilet seat was quite something.
For a weekend to remember…
Napa Valley aka heaven (Picture: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Just a 90 minute drive away from San Francisco is Napa Valley. It’s hard to describe how much I fell in love with the place, but I’ll do my best. After some hectic days in SF, Napa had everything we wanted: wine, sunshine, nightlife, and friendly locals.
Our first stop was Hall Wines, where I channeled my best Meredith Blake from the Parent Trap (part of the film, staring Lindsay Lohan, is filmed in Napa Valley). The winery here really is like something out a movie, with stone buildings and vineyards going on as far as the eye can see.
Living my best life at Hall Wines (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
We opted for a private Platinum Tasting Experience ($200 per person), with our host, Nick, who patiently taught us how to sniff, sip and appreciate the seven wines, while we got progressively more tipsy (sorry, Nick). The top-ups kept on coming, and the food pairings, including a beef tartare and duck relate were a welcome accompaniment. Once our tasting was very sadly over, we could then wander the 33-acre property, glasses still firmly in hand.
Very much in need of some lunch, we then headed to Mothers Tacos. Again, nothing I write here will do this Mexican feast justice. I’m still drooling over the suadero tacos (slow cooked beef taco), and dirty fries. Don’t skip the grilled elote – a street food side and an eye-opening reveal into how good corn on the cob can actually taste.
The best Mexican food I’ve ever eaten (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
Next on the itinerary was another wine tasting (visitors often do multiple tastings in one day), this time at Gambling & McDuck – a bar in the centre of Napa, this had a more East London ‘trendy’ feel. The staff are on hand to answer any questions as they pour you five of their current releases, and its a more affordable option at just $35 per person.
For dinner, I implore you to go to Scala Osteria – a cute neighbourhood Italian where the food is a good as the service. We had the spaghetti vongole and raviolo al limone, followed by the sugary zeppolle. Our lovely waiter Ben made the experience all the more enjoyable and was full of recommendations for after dinner drinks (the local pool bar, Billcos Billards, is quite the gear change, but kept our night going), and ask for Deon if you want advice on what to order from the wine menu. For three courses with wine (and a few cocktails) our bill came to $188 for two.
A dreamy hotel in Napa (Picture: From the Hip Photo)
We crashed into bed that night at the Napa Valley Marriot Hotel & Spa – if heaven isn’t this hotel, I’ll be disappointed. The rooms are spacious, and set around a courtyard pool, where you can order some lunch while you catch some rays. The hotel also offers wine tastings, a bbq, and there’s yoga each morning too. Double room start from start from £292 (plus the Destination Amenity fee).
A once in a lifetime experience (Picture: Kristina Beanland)
And, for a truly unforgettable experience, book a hot air balloon ride over the valley. Prepare for the early start (we were picked up from the hotel at 5am, after a lot of wine the day before), but once you’re more than 2,000ft in the air, it’s more than worth the early call time. I’m not the best with heights, but felt in safe hands with our trusty captain Chad, and seeing the valley from a bird’s eye view was breathtaking. The three-hour adventure with Balloons Above The Valley, which includes a much needed pre-flight coffee and breakfast, costs $269 per person.
For more information head to San Francisco Travel and Visit Napa Valley.
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