This time I visited Kos to see if Greece could still hold a place in my heart (Picture: Getty Images)
The first time I visited the Greek Islands my best friend was floored (literally) by a man in a club jumping from the skies to ‘It’s Raining Men’.
That same trip in Crete, I lost my bikini top going down a very high and fast water slide. It does happen, trust me.
On my second holiday (this time Corfu), I had my heart broken after a disastrous holiday fling. By my third trip (Zakynthos) I was all loved up with my now husband, James, but still on a mission to drink one island dry of Ouzo.
I think I’ve been another time (Skiathos) and maybe even a fifth… but two decades on it’s all become a bit of a Greek blur to me.
All I do remember is that it was all about having fun in a chaotic haven packed with party boys and girls at night, and lazing by the pool during the day as you tried to kick your hangover with yet another lurid cocktail.
I appreciate this might sound like holiday hell to some, but to me it was heaven – and I’d always avoided tainting my daft, youthful memories with new ones that I imagined involved a hot and sweaty me berating my children for not trying local dishes or feeling flummoxed by asking a bus driver to take me anywhere other than the local party hotspot.
Greece was my go-to destination before I had kids (Picture: Claie Wilson)
Of course, there are many people who have always considered the Greek Islands family-friendly, but not me. That was until I, along with my husband and two sons Sam, 16, and Jake, 13, were offered the chance to explore Kos – one of the islands I’d never been to before.
A picturesque island in the southeastern Aegean Sea, Kos is known for its rich history and stunning landscapes. (Not forgetting the textbook sandy beaches and beautiful clear-blue sea that come as standard with a Greek Island.)
We were staying in the seaside resort of Psalidi, just 5km outside the island’s main town, also named Kos, and is a friendly little port, home to endless pretty-as-a-picture narrow streets scattered with the classic Greek blue and white colours, alongside bustling squares packed with restaurants and bars.
Ruins of an ancient Agora and the city walls of Kos Town (Picture:: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Then there’s the historic sites such as the Castle of the Knights and the Tree of Hippocrates, a centuries-old plane tree where the ancient physician Hippocrates is believed to have taught his students.
Our accommodation for the week was to the 5-star Grecotel Lux Me Kos Imperial, – part of Jet2 Luxe Collection – and as our coach pulled in it certainly looked the part.
Arriving at dusk, a beautiful water feature greeted us out front and as we entered through two impressive giant wooden doors, we swapped the warm evening breeze for a rush of cool air to the skin thanks to the the spacious marble reception area.
Here we were welcomed not only by incredibly friendly staff but also by an even more beautiful water feature through the doors on the other side of the room.
This is the not-so-shabby scene that greeted us once we walked through the hotel reception (Picture: James Christiansen)
One of the hotel’s fancy dining areas (Picture: Grecotel)
With the sea as the backdrop giving full on infinity pool vibes, it wasn’t a bad welcome to Greece as a grown up. (And thankfully, far more inviting than the usual Greek cockroach infested apartments I – and my budget – endured when I was younger.)
After a quick check in, we were ushered down to the restaurant as we’d arrived late in the evening and offered something to eat.
While my boys dreamed of something with chips – we were served a plate of potatoes (not quite chips), salad and a piece of meat that had probably been left over from dinner time.Even so, it was more than welcome and it was lovely to have that consideration.
Speaking of meals, it’s also worth noting that while breakfast was included and kids under 13 go free at the lunch buffet, with so many dining options on offer, we realised quite quickly that in a resort like this it pays to go for all-inclusive (something we didn’t do).
The pools on offer weren’t too bad either… (Picture: Grecotel)
What was included regardless, was four amazing outdoor pools, including a kid’s pool and two indoor pools, alongside the hotel’s own private beach area, which offered a touch of luxury that made it all the harder to want to explore the island. (Especially as it had a bar you could swim to and each beachfront lounger had it’s own table if you preferred a cocktail while you happily lazed by the ocean.)
I also soon discovered that without the killer hangovers and late nights, there was far more time and energy to explore the island than I ever had in my twenties – and we were easily enchanted by the magic that Kos delivered, which is for anyone, whether you’re travelling solo or with two device-obsessed children in tow.
With Kos Town just a 15 minute bus ride away we made that the focus of our touristing and it didn’t disappoint.
The former fortress of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, Neratzia Castle(Picture: Getty Images)
There we found a 15th century archaeological site that gave plenty for us all to explore with its mix of crumbling stone and stairs, and breathtaking views of the sea – and Turkey just four miles away on the other side of the ocean – not to mention the story behind it.
Once known as Neratzia Castle it was built by the Knights of St John to control the straits between Greece and Turkey. Among the vast grounds you’ll find gun ports, dry old moat and a load of stone relics with stories to tell.
Claie and husband James by the famous Tree of Hippocrates (Picture: James Christiansen)
For another dose of history and not far from the castle ruins was the famous the Tree of Hippocrates which, even though it was protected by steel fencing, was still a sight to savour.
Being a port, Kos also offers an abundance of boat tours – so one afternoon we booked ourselves onto the glass bottomed Yellow Submarine, which took us on a 90 minute trip along the coast.
On our journey we got to marvel at the sickeningly fancy superyachts nearby, discover a shipwreck on the ocean bed and get up close to the sealife, including a mermaid (yes, really).
There was even time to jump off the side of the ‘sub’ (or the top of as Jake daringly did) and swim in the sea for a bit. It was a fantastic way to spend an afternoon and well worth the €20 ticket per person. ( €10 for kids under 13 and free for those under three.)
Getting ready for our ocean adventure on the Yellow Submarine (Picture: James Christiansen)
A dip in the beautiful crystal sea (Picture: James Christiansen)
So many side streets to explore(Picture: Getty Images)
Away from the sightseeing, we made our way around the narrow streets that line the town behind the scenes. Alongside tourist tat, sat authentic goodies, such as olive oils and handmade gifts, as well as plenty of places to eat, no matter your palate.
One night we left the boys behind to have room service pizza while we headed back to Kos Town to eat at a beautiful little restaurant we’d spotted hiding up some steps.
Called the Fish House Taverna it did pretty much what it said on the tin. We had prawns to start, followed by mixed seafood (including swordfish cuttlefish and mussels), which was delicious.
The food from the Fish House was top knotch (Picture: James Christiansen)
Fitting right in with the colour scheme… (Picture: James Christiansen)
Having discovered the joys of gyros (in short a meat kebab stuffed with chips, what’s not to like if you’re a teenager), the boys were happy to eat at most places – although none more so than the Taverna Romeo restaurant opposite the hotel where the owner welcomed every single visitor like an old friend, peppering meals with free ice cream, shots and more shots, so you’d never want to leave.
In our hotel there was also an abundance of eateries, including the 1930s Bar Restaurant, which offered fancy dinners where you cooked your meat yourself in a hot stone plate next to you (I chose the lamb which was sublime), and desserts to die for, including gelato and cheeses galore.
While we didn’t try them all as we weren’t all-inclusive, there was also the Asiana and Finica fine dining restaurants within the complex, which I was told were amazing.
And even though there was plenty of sun, sea and sand – as well as full-on inflatable rides for around £30 for 4 people – to enjoy at the hotel, there was one place we were really keen to visit: the youth-defying (or said to be) Thermal Beach just 8km from the hotel.
The specially created ‘pool’ at Thermal Beach (Picture: Getty Images)
Legend has it that in the 1930s an Italian archaeologist discovered a thermal spring that leaked mineral-rich waters into the Aegean Sea, which was soon turned into a bathing area high in potassium, magnesium and sulphur – all ingredients that are meant to be great for the skin.
Regardless of your age though, it’s a great (and free) place to visit and let the cool waves wash over you as they mix with the thermal water – and even cooler when you go at sunset or day break when it’s much less of a tourist trap.
So did I enjoy Greece as an adult? Hell yeah. And I even had one morning when I woke up feeling slightly jaded from all the shots of Ouzo on offer throughout our meals at the nearby restaurants.
It may not have been the wildest holiday I’ve ever had, but getting to explore and relax in a place that I had cherished for decades with my children more than made up for it.
And who knows, maybe it will be their first party paradise in a few year’s time.
How to get there
We travelled to Kos with Jet2 and stayed at the 5-star Grecotel Lux Me Kos Imperial,part of Jet2 Luxe Collection.
Fares to Kos (Greece) with Jet2.com start at £132 per person one way including taxes. Package holidays with Jet2holidays to the 5-star Grecotel Lux Me Kos Imperial, start from £739 per person for seven nights bed & breakfast accommodation, departing from London Stansted on 5th June 2024 and based on two adults sharing. Price includes a 22kg baggage allowance, 10kg hand luggage and return transfers. To book flights visit www.jet2.com or for package holidays visit www.jet2holidays.com or call free on 0800 408 5594.
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We went to the island of Kos to find out.