Greece enlightening: No, Corfu is not just a ‘basic beach’ – here’s why it deserves another chance

Hold off before you call it ‘basic’ (Picture: Getty)

For me, Corfu had always conjured up images of jam-packed crowds on narrow streets, and pubs crammed with boozy holidaymakers heckling at loud TV screens showing endless football matches.

Now, there’s definitely a place where I’m occasionally happy to partake in all of this: London.

I’ve just, personally, never fancied a holiday that was simply a sunny ‘home away from home’. I like my travel excursions to not mirror my everyday life and, if you feel the same, Corfu is not for you.

Or so I thought.

Now, the popular Greek island definitely does what it says on the tin. Its rowdy reputation is founded, but dare to scratch beyond that and you’ll be in on a special little secret.

Because, just a few minutes north of the heady bells and whistles that is Corfu Town, hides a piece of heaven.

Pathway to heaven: Apraos beach House (Picture: Dom Hines)

Bon appetit! Or, as the say in Greece, καλή όρεξη! (PIcture: Dom Hines)

Apraos, also known as Kalamaki, is a quiet, unspoilt, and shockingly overlooked little area that, I would discover, delights in its elusiveness.

Invited here by a pal who insisted my mind would be blown, I was stunned as we we whisked past the hustle and bustle of the town centre only to be met by lush greenery and the almost blinding turquiose of the sea.

Apraos may sit between Kassiopi and Acharavi, the two most popular tourist resorts on the north side of Corfu, but it’s starkingly worlds apart.

I rocked up at Apraos Beach House – a large villa at the corner of the ocean also surrounded by jagged cliffs.

The property, which has several en-suite rooms and a fully-equipped kitchen, was a genius spot to be based at, as it’s perfectly-surrounded by the ocean and Apraos’ famous mountains. Literally, every window framed a breathtaking view.

Me and my pal April kicking-off at the villa (Picture: Dom Hines)

Room with a view! Wake up to Apraos Beach (PIcture: Dom Hines)

Cheers to Corfu: Aperol in Apraos (PIcture: Dom Hines)

On arrival, I tucked into delicious Greek fare, which included homemade breads with locally-sourced olive oil and delicious tzatziki on the shaded outdoor terrace that brought with it a gentle sea breeze.

How surreal. Just a few hours earlier I was darting from my east London flat like a sweaty Betty to the London tube where I had my face pressed to the door it was so crammed, on my way to the airpost.

But now, it was heaven-o-clock (sorry) and in my dreaded Corfu of all places? 

After a lengthy rest in a sun lounger with Aperol Spritz by my side, it was, well, time to eat again. 

I made the two-minute walk to charming Lasmari Aprios – a super-cute restaurant on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Apraos Bay where I had the most delicious steak ever while dining al fresco surrounded by that perennial gorgeous hillside.

The idyllic fishing village Kassiopi (PIcture: Dom HInes)

Working off breakfast in Kasssiopi village (Picture: Dom Hines)

Kassiopi Castle on the northeastern coast of Corfu oversees the fishing village of Kassiopi (PIcture: Getty)

I woke up to bright blue skies the next day, my first morning, and had delicious Corfiot tiganites (traditional Corfu pancakes) for breakfast at the fishing village of Kassiopi – a 10-minute drive from Apraos Beach House.

Limani Bar was a wonderful wake-up call. I also had freshly-squeezed orange juice, which I wouldn’t normally mention but Greek oranges are the Greek Gods of the citrus world – hence, the shout out.

After stuffing my face, I did a bit of Greek cardio – AKA, trekking up the hillsides – and checked out a ruin of an old fortress, which overlooks the harbour. 

Cape Drastis is simply breathtaking (Picture: Dom Hines)

Corfu’s unspoilt beauty is worth trekking up the rough terrains to see (Picture: Dom HInes)

There’s also a small footpath that leads you up to Kassiopi castle – an imposing architectural structure that was used to defend the island before the Venetian era (1386–1797).

Later, I swam in the unimaginably crystal clear waters of Apraos, which are also very shallow, by the way. You could walk several metres in and still be just knee-deep, making it perfect for families and bad swimmers like me.

However, for serious swimmers, there’s a pier that leads to deeper waters.

I had the ocean to myself as Apraos is never crowded, and also had the option of taking one of the readily available boats to visit other secluded beaches nearby.

The colourful cottages that line the streets in Afionas (Picture: Dom Hines)

Taking in Afionas (Picture: Dom Hines)

Apraos also stands out for not having the usual whitewashed concrete jungle of villas peppering the hillside like, say, Santorini.

It’s full of colourful buildings from the Venetian period. Part of the Ionian Islands group, it’s was ruled by the Venetians for more than 400 years.

It’s also one of the greenest islands in Greece with its imposing hills, cypress trees and vast olive groves. 

One of the best ways to learn about this surprising place is by jeep safari with X Adventure Club. If you’re prone to car sickness, you might want to pop an anti-nausea pill as the all-day ride is winding, bumpy and precipitous. 

Me and my fellow sightseers with our knowledgeable Safari Jeep tour guide (Picture: Dom Hines)

The Enotis Olive Oil Museum (Picture: Dom HInes)

The knowledgeable guide darted through stunning spots, including village of Afionas – one of the oldest in Corfu –  that looks like it’s straight out of a fairytale with its colourful cottages, flower-framed buildings, and incredibly friendly locals. 

The tour took me to some of the most obscure and hard to reach spots off-road, including the unspoilt Crab Lake and the beautiful bay of Agios Georgios – a wide valley between high rocky headlands.

I then trekked up the ‘secret trail’ to take in the breathtaking view of Cape Drastis – a cluster of hidden sea caves and white cliffs emerging from the emerald green ocean.

I ended my adventure at the Enotis Olive Oil Museum in Vistonas.

If you love olive oil – this is a must visit. I learned about olive oil production and tree cultivation, and saw the centuries-old tools and machinery.

At the end, I sampled several versions of pure olive oil on bread from the unique and misshapen Lianolia olives that are native to the region. 

A tavern with a view: Speedboat taxis await guests at Taverna Agn (Picture: Dom Hines)

My final night I saw me dining at Taverna Agni, which sits on a small cove with a pebble beach where the tasty dishes change daily to keep things interesting. The biggest draw here, though, is how you get here.

It was a treat being picked up and dropped off by Taverna Agni’s speedboat taxi service and darting through the surrounding bays and coves.

As I headed back to my villa giggling like I was eight years old again as the boat jumped up and down on the friendly waves – it felt bittersweet.

Sweet, because I fell for Corfu. Bitter, because of how long I’d missed out.

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Think you know Corfu? Think again.